3d day

Went 3d with a small hiccup.  One crack to mend....

In the course of unfolding the stitched  halves.  the starboard bottom panel did a reverse flex and cracked just before the bow.  will patch with glass on the inside and sand smooth.  nothing terminal yet.  I did need to add a little reinforcement at the bow to get things lined up better.  It is pretty spectacular when this thing unfolds.  I recommend an extra pair of hands here.  

This crack was not as bad as it looked.  a couple of layers of glass set in epoxy on this side, backed up by a scrap piece of 1/4" ply set over release film and screwed in place created an almost invisible yet strong joint.  Sad to say, I have had to do this process many times while building boats.

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Grinding your Own

 A year ago or so we ran out of coffee while camping and while in town, picked up some more coffee.  I checked the bag that the coffee was in and it felt pre-ground.  Next morning when we got up to make coffee, the beans turned out not to be ground.  Luckily, there was a large rock at the edge of the campground and the banks of the river across the street yielded a mano, the stone you hold in your hands to grind the corn. With a little practice we managed to make a fine grind and breakfast was saved.
Closeup on the grinding operation.


 Of course, grinding stuff on stone grinders is nothing new.  It is in fact quite old and just recently, we visited Montezumas Castle in Arizona where a number of stone grinders were on exhibit.
 

 The stone grinders in the American Southwest are known as Mano and Metate, the metate being the large flat stone and the smaller one you grind with is called the Mano.
 A slightly different arrangement visible throughout California are large flat boulders that were used for grinding acorns, a staple food in much of California before the arrival of the Europeans.  Unlike the metate which is flat, the grind stones for acorns have conical pits in them.  This prevents the acorns from spreading about.  Any that escape in the grinding process can be easily swept back into the hole.
And here is a long view of the grinding rock.  Note that the rock had a number of pits in it and so had room for a number of women to go about their grinding in a sociable way.  The rock also happens to be conveniently located in a flat area surrounded by oaks.
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A little touch up Pull the tape

There was a spot on the transom where I hadnt taped it accurately, and that left a little unpainted notch in my "waterline." So, I touched it up the same as Id painted it... 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of paint... just with a small brush instead of a foam roller.

After it all dried, I pulled the tape off. Soon it will be time to tape off the bottom and the transom, and paint the sides of the hull.

First, Ive got to drill a hole for the bow eye.


Oops.

2 coats of primer.

2 coats of paint.

The un-taped transom.

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FLIPPED!

Today, I finally got the boat hull flipped over & placed on the trailer. Much work remains to be done, but it was a momentous day, nonetheless.


Here, you can see the remnant of the construction form that is glued to the base of frame #1.


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Yeah Something about like that


It can be tricky taking decent photos of my boat, because the lighting in my shop isnt the greatest. Still, I wanted to share a few photos of the painting progress, now that the color scheme is beginning to look more cohesive. 

On a portion of the sheer, Ive painted 2 coats of the Aquagard 190 primer, and 3 coats of the Sea Foam Green. I pulled the tape off of the aft port section of the boat, where the 3 main colors come together: Whidbey White, Sea Foam Green, and natural Mahogany. 

Not a perfect paint job, but heres a glimpse of the look Ive been pursuing:

Mahogany quarter knee, System Three Whidbey White hull, Aqua Gloss Sea Foam Green sheer, Meranti transom.

Mahogany quarter knee, System Three Whidbey White hull, Aqua Gloss Sea Foam Green sheer & bottom, Meranti transom.
— Happy Thanksgiving to you.
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Encapsulating the interior

I have begun coating the interior of the hull with epoxy. The goal is two coats, and then paint. So far, Ive gotten the the first coat onto forward third of the hull.





I also got an initial coat of epoxy onto the mahogany quarter knees.


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The Utility Fitting the first planking panels

After a brief debate about whether to plank the transom first, or last, I eventually came to the conclusion that it’s a matter of individual preference. Other boatbuilders I trust kindly offered me their opinions, reasons, and techniques. I weighed all of their input before deciding on my own course of action.

I’m going to plank the sides first, and the transom second. That way, the aesthetics of the bright-finished transom should be consistent all the way out to the sides, with no end grain from the side planking visible.


Then I’m going to plank the bottom last. The reason for this basically boils down to ease of construction, regarding the transom. It seems to me that it will be easier to plank the transom while I can still access both inner and outer surfaces of it for clamping. I wouldn’t be able to do this after the bottom is planked. Since the lower edge of the transom will be underwater, then it won’t matter if the end grain is visible (whether or not it’s an aesthetic matter).

Planking
I started by cutting two 2’ x 4’ panels from a sheet of the Meranti. These will be the aft side panels. I clamped the first one into place on the starboard side. Then I roughly traced the trim line with a pencil, and removed the panel. I drew a second line 1” outside the trim line, so the panel would still be slightly oversized after I cut it. I cut it, and checked it against the port side. Since it looked good against the port side also, I used the cut piece as a template to trace out the second panel.

With both panels cut, I clamped them back into position. I’m very happy with the fitting on the starboard side. The port side still needs a little fairing, but it’s close.


Initial fitting of the aft starboard panel.

Aft starboard panel-to-transom fit. This gap will need to be filled in.

Aft starboard panel to frame #1 fit.

Aft starboard panel-to-transom inner fit.

Aft port panel-to-transom fit.

Aft port panel-to-sheer fit. This area needs a little more fairing.

Aft port panel-to-sheer fit, forward of frame #1. This area needs a little more fairing.

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